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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.